Peptides are back and are popping up everywhere in skincare recently. During discussions at my Marylebone clinic, I’m often asked whether they really deserve a place in our routines, or if they’re just a trend making another appearance.
While ingredients such as vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid and retinol often take centre stage, peptides have stood the test of time and are a valuable addition to a curated skincare routine. They can support the skin in several ways, from maintaining firmness and elasticity to strengthening the skin barrier and supporting the skin’s natural repair processes.
It’s important to note that not all peptides work in the same way. Let’s take a closer look at why the industry’s loving them once again, and go over what they are, what they do, and why you should incorporate them into your routine.
What Are Peptides?
Peptides are short chains of amino acids. Amino acids are the building blocks of proteins, including collagen and elastin, which are two proteins that are particularly important when it comes to the firmness and elasticity of our skin. As we age, our natural production of collagen and elastin declines, contributing to changes such as fine lines, loss of firmness and reduced elasticity.
In skincare, they can act as tiny messengers, sending signals to the skin to support processes such as collagen production and repair. Different peptides have different functions, which means they can be selected according to particular skin concerns and goals.
You’ll most commonly find them in products such as serums and moisturisers, where they can be incorporated into your daily routine and used consistently over time.
The Different Types of Peptides
There are several different types used in skincare, and understanding their individual functions helps explain why they can be so versatile.
Signal Peptides
Signal peptides communicate with the skin to encourage the production of proteins such as collagen and elastin. By supporting these natural processes, they can help improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, while also contributing to firmer, plumper skin.
Palmitoyl tripeptide is one example of a signal peptide. It can help support the skin’s production of collagen and elastin and is often found in formulations designed to improve firmness and visible signs of ageing.
Carrier Peptides
Carrier peptides have a slightly different role. They help deliver trace elements, such as copper and manganese, to the skin. These minerals are important for several biological processes, including collagen production and tissue repair. Copper peptides in particular have attracted attention for their ability to support the skin’s natural healing processes. This makes them useful when the skin is recovering from damage or professional treatments.
Neurotransmitter Peptides
Rather than primarily supporting collagen production, neurotransmitter peptides influence the signals involved in facial muscle contraction. Acetyl hexapeptide is one example that is commonly used in skincare to target the appearance of expression lines. By helping to reduce the intensity of muscle contractions, these peptides can contribute to a smoother-looking appearance over time.
It’s important to remember that they are not a replacement for injectable treatments, but they can be a useful ingredient within a broader approach to managing the appearance of fine lines.
Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides
As well as encouraging the production of collagen, it is equally important to protect the collagen we already have.
Enzyme inhibitor peptides work by helping to slow down the activity of enzymes that can contribute to the breakdown of collagen. By supporting the preservation of existing collagen, they can help the skin maintain its firmness and smoothness.
Why I Love Peptides
After 30 years in the industry, I’ve seen and learnt a lot about different skincare ingredients. What I particularly love about them is their versatility.
Rather than focusing on just one skin concern, they support the overall health and resilience of the skin. They can help encourage collagen production, support the skin barrier, and calm inflammation. A healthy skin barrier is particularly important because it helps protect the skin from external stressors while reducing moisture loss. Throughout the summer, our skin can be exposed to increased UV radiation, heat, pollution and dehydration, making barrier support especially important.
Peptides can also be beneficial for skin that is prone to sensitivity or inflammation. By helping to support a healthier skin environment, they can contribute to calmer skin.
How Should You Incorporate Peptides in Your Routine?
If you’re new to peptides, I would recommend introducing a serum or moisturiser containing them into your routine and using it consistently.
They are generally well suited to being incorporated alongside other skincare ingredients, but your entire routine doesn’t need to be complicated. The key is choosing products that complement your skin and working out which ingredients are actually going to benefit you.
As always, daily SPF remains essential. No matter how sophisticated your skincare routine is, protecting your skin from UV exposure is one of the most important things you can do to support healthy ageing.
Two Peptide Products I’m Loving
If you’re looking to introduce peptides into your routine, there are two products I’m particularly enjoying at the moment.
SACHI Future Veil® Firm & Repair Peptide Cream
This award-winning cream is designed to target multiple visible signs of ageing, including fine lines and wrinkles, loss of firmness, dullness, dark spots and signs of barrier stress.
I particularly like it for its focus on firming, smoothing and supporting the skin barrier, with the skin appearing smoother and more refined with consistent use.
YON-KA Advanced Optimizer Crème
For skin where lifting, firmness and loss of density are the main concerns, YON-KA Advanced Optimizer Crème is another favourite.
It contains a combination of white lupin peptides and structural milk peptides. The white lupin peptides help support the skin against the natural processes involved in collagen breakdown, while the formulation is designed to help restore the appearance of density and volume.
It’s a lovely option for supporting facial contours and maintaining a firmer-looking complexion. Plus, you can receive 12% off when you use code CHELSEELEWIS at checkout!
The Key Takeaway
Peptides may have become a buzzword in skincare, but their appeal goes beyond the trend. They offer a versatile way of supporting the skin’s natural functions, from collagen production and firmness to barrier health, repair and inflammation.
If you’re considering introducing them into your routine, start with a well-formulated serum or moisturiser and focus on consistency rather than using multiple products at once. The important thing is to remember that there is no single “best” peptide. Different peptides have different roles, and the right choice will always depend on your individual skin and what you want to achieve.
If you’re unsure of the best way to start including peptides in your skincare routine, I’m more than happy to discuss one of my favourite ingredients in our next appointment!
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